Otto Health

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How to find high-performance activewear, minus the forever chemicals

Otto Health

Over the past two years, health-conscious consumers have begun to pay attention to minimizing their exposure to “forever chemicals” (NY Times). These chemicals, which accumulate in our bodies over time, have been linked to impaired reproductive health, greater risk of cancer, and altered immune response (Endocrine Society).

Health-conscious individuals are also often active, and unfortunately, activewear is one of the most common culprits for forever chemicals like PFAS (CBS).

Being mindful of activewear fabrics is an important way to reduce exposure to harmful chemicals. In this article, we provide an overview of fabrics and forever chemicals, offer tips for limiting your exposure, and provide insight on common activewear brands.

What are the different types of fabrics?

Natural fabrics

Natural fabrics include cotton, linen, wool, and silk (AniMac). These options are good for both personal health (breathability, hypoallergenic properties, fewer chemicals) and the environment (more biodegradable, lower carbon footprint, reduced microplastic pollution, come from renewable resources). However, these materials are often treated with pesticides, herbicides, and other chemicals during cultivation, which reduces the benefits on both dimensions.

Synthetic fabrics

Synthetic fabrics include polyester, nylon, acrylic (wool substitute), spandex, rayon (semi-synthetic fiber), acetate (satin), and polypropylene (AniMac).

Synthetic fibers often contain microplastics (European Environment Agency). Friction, from laundering or normal wear and tear, causes synthetic fibers to shed microplastics into the water system, into the air, and onto surfaces. 

The product of synthetic fibers often involves the use of chemicals known as volatile organic compounds (VOCs). New fabrics, such as clothing, upholstery, and carpets, release VOCs as they off-gas, which can be inhaled. Similarly, when synthetic fabrics are exposed to heat or sunlight, they can release VOCs. (Source)

Despite these environmental and health concerns, synthetic fabrics like polyester and spandex are still commonly used in activewear due to their durability, stretch, and moisture-wicking properties, which improve athletic performance.

Tencel

TENCEL™ Lyocell and Modal are unique fabrics derived from wood pulp (Tencel) and frequently used as replacements for rayon in activewear. In both cases, the pulp undergoes a mostly closed-loop process, with waste generated during production captured, recycled, and reused within the same process. This minimizes waste and environmental impact compared to the production of fibers like rayon.

TENCEL™ Lyocell is made primarily from eucalyptus trees. Nearly all the chemicals used in its production are non-toxic and recycled in a highly efficient closed-loop process. The fabric is known for being soft, breathable, and eco-friendly. It has excellent moisture-wicking properties and is often used in bedding, activewear, and clothing.

Modal, made from beech tree pulp, is a semi-synthetic fabric processed similarly to rayon but is more durable and softer. It's lightweight, very soft, and has a silky feel, making it popular for underwear, loungewear, and bedding. While its production involves more chemicals and has a lower chemical recovery rate compared to Lyocell, it is still considered eco-friendly, and the fabric itself is biodegradable.

What are forever chemicals?

Per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) are "forever chemicals" that are frequently used in activewear fabrics to repel water and stains. They rely on bonds between carbon and multiple fluorine atoms to have useful properties (e.g., oil-repellent, stain-repellent, water-repellent, non-stick) (Green Science Policy). However, PFAS can build up in the body over time and are linked to adverse health outcomes including cancer (especially kidney and testicular) and hormone disruption (NRDC). 

To determine whether a product has PFAS, agencies test for fluorine as an indicator of PFAS (EHN, eurofins).

Tips

Choose natural or organic fabrics

Although these fabrics can still be treated with PFAS, they are generally less toxic. Note, it isn’t always feasible to avoid polyester in activewear due to performance issues with natural or organic fabrics.

Choose certified products

The best certifications are Bluesign, OEKO-TEX, and GOTS. Bluesign follows the entire supply chain and has the most comprehensive list of prohibited substances. GOTS requires a minimum of 70% organic fibers, covers the entire supply chain, and prohibits many harmful substances. OEKO-TEX primarily tests for harmful substances in the final product, but it is highly recognized and respected. For a comparison of certifications, scroll to the bottom of this article.

Choose trusted brands

Excellent brands for workout clothes are Patagonia, Girlfriend Collective, Mate the Label, and Organic Basics. For more information on brands, scroll to the bottom of this article.

Read labels

Look for labels that specify “PFC-free” or “fluorine-free” to avoid these chemicals. Be wary of any products that contain any ingredient with “fluoro” in the name.

Be mindful of washing

Use guppy bags or filters when washing fabrics—these can capture microplastics during washing. Also, wash less frequently to minimize fiber shedding.

Air out new items

Allow new synthetic items to off-gas outside or in a well-ventilated space.

To sum it up

Balancing performance with health and environmental concerns can be challenging when choosing activewear fabrics. Natural fabrics like organic cotton and TENCEL™ offer a healthier, eco-friendly option, but they may lack the performance qualities of synthetic fabrics like polyester. By opting for certified products, avoiding PFAS, and being mindful of washing practices, you can make more informed, health-conscious decisions about your activewear.

Appendix

Certifications

  • GOTS

    • Prohibitions: Heavy metals, formaldehyde, aromatic solvents, GMOs, azo dyes

    • Restrictions: Pesticides, Minimum of 70% organic fibers

    • Environment: Water & energy use, waste management, dyeing

    • Social: Fair wages, safe working conditions, no child labor

    • Scope: Entire supply chain

  • OEKO-TEX

    • Prohibitions: Heavy metals, azo dyes

    • Restrictions: Formaldehyde, aromatic solvents, pesticides

    • Environment: Not a primary focus

    • Social: OEKO-TEX® STeP certification

    • Scope: Tests final product

  • bluesign

    • Prohibitions: Heavy metals, formaldehyde, certain aromatic solvents, GMOs, azo dyes

    • Restrictions: Aromatic solvents, pesticides

    • Environment: Water & energy use, waste management, emissions

    • Social: Safe working conditions and social responsibility

    • Scope: Entire supply chain

  • Cradle to Cradle

    • Prohibitions: Heavy metals, certain azo dyes, GMOs

    • Restrictions: Formaldehyde, aromatic solvents, pesticides

    • Environment: Material reutilization, renewable energy, water

    • Social: Safe working conditions and fair treatment

    • Scope: Entire supply chain

  • USDA Organic

    • Prohibitions: Most synthetic chemicals and toxic substances, synthetic pesticides, fertilizers, GMOs

    • Restrictions: N/A

    • Environment: Soil health, water quality, and biodiversity

    • Social: N/A

    • Scope: Agricultural aspects (raw materials)

Brands

The “good”

The “uncertain”

The “bad”